Kittens usually head off to their new home and family when they are around 8-12 weeks old. This can be stressful for them as it is the first time they will have been away from their mother and siblings. Most kittens will quickly settle into their new surroundings, but some may take a while to adjust. Rehoming should not happen before 8 weeks because they’ll miss out on learning important communication and socialization skills.

Bringing a new kitten home involves some preparation. Make sure your home is kitten-proof, and you have all the resources necessary already in place, such as food and water bowls, litter trays, hiding places, toys and beds. Your new kitten will be shy and nervous at first but will become more confident as the days go by. Allow them time and space to settle in. If you have children, try to keep them calm around their new furry friend. Make sure your kitten has settled in before handling them too much. They’ll want to explore their new surroundings and can be very inquisitive, so be careful with unattended food, electric cables, ornaments, plants and other hazards. As soon as you bring your new kitten home, get them registered at a veterinary practice and book them in for a health check. There will be lots to discuss with the veterinarian at this visit – microchipping, vaccinations, preventative treatments, and neutering. Don’t let your kitten outside until it has had its vaccinations, worming treatments and has been microchipped. At this age, your kitten will need around 18-20 hours of sleep. When awake, they’ll be stalking, hiding, running, playing and pouncing. It’s a good idea to have cat toys ready for them to play with and a scratching post. They will want to sharpen their claws and will use your furniture if they don’t have a scratching post. In preparation for their first veterinary visit, get your kitten used to being in a cat carrier. Place the carrier open on the floor and allow your kitten to explore the inside. Do not place or shut them inside it to start with. Use blankets, food and toys with their scent to encourage them to go inside.

Your kitten will need a diet that contains all the essential nutrients that are needed for normal growth and bone development. Pick a food that is nutritionally complete (rather than ‘complementary’), and age appropriate for young and growing kittens. This food will be high in nutrients which is needed for their rapid growth and development. It provides twice as much energy compared to an adult cat diet. If the food is a complete diet, you won’t need to give extra vitamins and supplements – and it may be harmful if you do. Make sure they always have access to fresh water and don’t give them cow’s milk as this can cause diarrhea. You’ll need to feed your kitten small meals 3 or 4 times a day, very gradually increasing food intake as they grow. They only have small tummies so can’t handle big meals. There are guidelines on how much to feed your kitten on the food packaging, but if you’re unsure you can check with your veterinarian. Over-feeding your kitten can lead to obesity and bone and joint problems and underfeeding can stunt growth and lead to various health problems. Book your kitten in for regular weight checks with your veterinarian or veterinary nurse so that they can monitor their weight and body condition score to see if they are gaining weight at the correct rate. The body condition score checks if they are carrying too much body fat or are too lean.

Cats are good at self-grooming and most short-haired cats manage to keep their coat neat and in good condition. Long-haired cats need a bit of help to maintain their coats. A brush once or twice a week is usually enough, but more brushing may be needed during high moulting seasons. Grooming your cat is a great opportunity to bond with them and helps to keep their coat mat and tangle free. Introducing a grooming routine while they are young will get them used to be brushed, and they’ll come to enjoy this time you spend together. Your kitten’s teeth will need brushing, ideally daily, to help prevent them from getting dental disease. Brushing teeth can be a challenging task but the more you do it, the quicker they will get used to it. Make sure you use a cat-friendly toothpaste and toothbrush - the fluoride levels in human toothpastes are too high for cats.

Housetraining a kitten is relatively easy. It's likely they will have already started using a litter tray from their time with the breeder. Some cats can be fussy about the type of litter used and where it’s placed. Try to use the same type of litter from their previous home. If your kitten is reluctant to use the litter tray, try a different type of litter or litter box, such as a covered one. Show your kitten where their litterbox is and make sure you keep it clean. Place them inside the litter tray after they have eaten and scratch at the litter with your finger. If your kitten goes to the toilet elsewhere, put the waste in the litter as the smell may encourage them to use the litter tray the next time they need to toilet. Place the tray away from their bed, food and water bowls, and make sure it is in a quiet place. If you have more than one cat, you will need a litter tray for each cat, plus one extra.

A kitten’s socialization training should start from 2 weeks. By the time you bring your kitten home, it will have learnt lots from its mother and siblings, but their training continues. Expose your kitten to a variety of new people, other animals, objects, noises and experiences to help them become confident and settle into their new home. It will also help them to cope with any future changes to their environment. The ‘juvenile’ period for a kitten is from 9 weeks of age until 6 months old - they will continue to do lots of learning and growing during this stage. If you already have other pets in your home, like a cat or dog, they may not get along with their new family member at first. Introductions should be made slowly so that neither animal sees the other as a threat. Keep your new kitten in its carrier for a while to give them time to take in all the new sights and smells of your other pets. Try to use a ‘scent-swapping’ technique first before you introduce them properly - first visually, and then physically. Remove your new kitten from the area if one of the animals become frightened or distressed, and try the introductions again later. Gradually let your new kitten spend time with your other pet(s). They’ll soon get to know each other and over time they’ll hopefully become friends.

At this age you should start thinking about neutering your kitten. Female cats can become pregnant from 4 months old and male cats can reproduce at 4 months old too. Your veterinarian will be able to discuss the pros and cons of neutering with you – how neutering affects their health and welfare and any risks involved with the procedure. There is no upper age limit for neutering cats, so if you want to breed from them first you can get them neutered later. But if your cat isn’t neutered, don’t let it wander freely outside as you’ll end up with unwanted pregnancies.

The immunity from infectious diseases that your kitten received from its mother will begin to weaken around this age. Now is the time to start their regular vaccinations to protect them against feline herpesvirus, feline calicivirus and feline panleukopenia. If your kitten is going to go outside (even occasionally) it is recommended that they are vaccinated against feline leukemia virus (FeLV). The first course can be given at 8-9 weeks of age, with the second course 3-5 weeks later. After that you will need to book them in for yearly booster injections. Your veterinarian will give you a vaccination record so that you can keep track of what vaccinations your cat has had and when they are due a booster. Now is a good time to get your kitten microchipped, even if they are going to be a house cat. If your cat gets stolen or wanders off, they are more likely to be returned to you if they have a microchip. Collars can be removed or fall off, which would leave your cat without any identification. Microchips are now a legal requirement for cats. At this age, diarrhea is common due to all the changes that your kitten goes through – new home, new family, change of diet and routine. All this change can cause stress, leading to an upset tummy. If your kitten gets diarrhea, feed them plain food little and often and make sure you keep your kitten hydrated by ensuring they always have access to fresh clean water. Book your kitten in to see a veterinarian if the kitten seems unwell, isn’t eating or the diarrhea doesn’t resolve in 1-2 days. You will need to continue worming your kitten every 2 weeks. When they are 12 weeks old, you can reduce worming treatments to every 3 months. Flea treatment is usually needed monthly, but this varies with product so check with your veterinarian. Make sure you use flea treatment that is designed for cats (not dogs!) and is age and weight appropriate. Your veterinarian will be able to give advice on the different preventative treatments available for your cat.