Old age – caring for elderly rabbits

Many rabbits live long and happy lives, especially those who are given correct care. With better owner education, improved diets and husbandry, and advanced medical care, more rabbits are living into their teenage and senior years. Ageing is inevitable, but there are things you can do to ensure your rabbit remains happy and healthy as they get older.

Rabbits often live into their second decade. Early literature reported rabbits living only 4 to 5 years. This misconception was likely because of rabbits dying at an early age due to poor management, rich diets, lack of ovariohysterectomy (spaying) and a lack of medical care. Rabbits aged 10 to 12 years are not uncommon, and rabbits as old as 14 years have been presented to veterinarians in practice. The record-breaking age for a rabbit has not been determined, but there are anecdotal reports of rabbits living 16 to 18 years.

Breed may have a significant effect on the aging process. Breeds with specific conformational traits (lop ears, flat (brachycephalic) faces, or large/giant in size) appear to live shorter lives. These are many of the breeds kept as rabbits, including dwarf and lop breeds.

The average rabbit is considered elderly as they reach around 7 or 8 years. But every rabbit is individual and will start showing signs of ageing at different times. Some larger breeds have shorter lifespans and age more quickly. They’re considered old when they’re only 4 or 5, sometimes younger! While other breeds won’t start slowing down until they’re 9 or 10.

Signs of ageing such as decreased activity, weight gain or loss, muscle mass loss, problems with mobility (especially problems with the back legs), dental problems, problems with eyesight and hearing, growths on skin or mucous membranes, difficulty grooming and keeping clean, and changes in behavior may all herald old age in your rabbit, although all of these signs can be seen in younger animals. It is important to remember, that whilst these may all be signs of old age, in itself old age is not a disease process and these signs are not inevitable and if your rabbit does show any, it is important to take them to see your veterinarian for medical treatment where indicated.

No matter what breed or age your furry friend is, you’ll need to pay attention to their own specific needs.

Yes, very probably! As your bunny gets older, they’ll probably become less active and sleep more than usual. They may also become clingier and more affectionate. Unfortunately, ageing does bring its problems. They might struggle to use their litter tray, with ageing joints they may find getting in and out of them a bit tricky, so you may have to make some changes to make it easier for them to use it. They may also find it harder to get around, so make sure they can still easily access their enclosure, food and water. You may have to make some small alterations to their living arrangements to make their life a little easier!

Keep an eye out for any dramatic behavioral changes that could indicate they’re in pain or suffering. Signs like sitting hunched up, unwillingness to move, rapid breathing, increased thirst or urination, staring eyes or grinding their teeth loudly are all signs that should ring alarm bells. Call your veterinarian immediately if you’re ever worried about the health of your elderly bunny.

It’s more important than ever to ensure your bunny has a healthy high-fiber diet as they get older. Senior rabbits still need a diet of mostly hay, grass and fresh greens. A healthy diet promotes a healthy digestive system and will also help prevent obesity, which in itself can cause numerous health problems, not only for senior rabbits.

If your bunny needs help to maintain their bodyweight you could introduce some pellets or feed a little more if they’re already included in their diet. It is important not to overfeed these as this will decrease the amount of hay and grass they eat. If they’re not as active and are becoming overweight, reduce the number of pellets fed. Don’t limit their hay or grass intake as this could cause digestive problems. Weigh your bunny weekly to check if they’re losing or gaining weight. A balanced diet will provide your rabbit with all the nutrients they need. Supplements aren’t generally recommended in rabbits of any age. If you need advice on feeding your elderly bunny, call your veterinarian who will be able to help.

There are some specific age-related problems that you should keep an eye out for…

Spinal problems

These are especially common in breeds with longer backs, including large lop breeds. Ruptured intervertebral discs and arthritic spinal problems both result in partial to total paralysis. The onset of paralysis may be acute or chronically progressive. Early intervention in these cases similarly improves their long-term prognosis. Radiographs (X-rays) are needed to diagnose these problems but may not pick up subtle changes and advanced imaging with an MRI or CT scanning may be needed. Again, keeping your pet slim with a good high fiber, low calorie diet and regular exercise will aid in preventing back and neck problems. Also, try to prevent large, long-backed rabbits from leaping off high perches such as couches, beds and chairs.

Blindness

Cataracts are common, but don’t usually cause problems. Rabbits adapt very well to gradually losing their sight. Signs of cataracts may include your rabbit bumping into objects, moving with their nose close to the ground, or becoming less keen on moving around as their vision becomes limited. Blind rabbits do not seem to suffer and if the reason for their blindness is controlled/corrected, and they are not in uncontrolled pain, then there is no reason why they shouldn’t continue to live a full and happy life. It is important to try to keep your rabbits environment the same, so they are familiar with where things are and less likely to bump into things and injure themselves.

Cancer

From time to time, rabbits can be affected by cancer, which can take many different forms. Some cancers are more common than others. Uterine adenocarcinoma is undoubtedly the most common tumor seen in female rabbits and is reported to affect up to 80% of unspayed female rabbits by the age of five. Spaying female rabbits at a young age is the best way of preventing this type of cancer. Mammary tumors are common in unspayed female rabbits. While some can be benign (not likely to spread), others can be very deadly. Cancer in male rabbits is rare. Other cancers can also occur and the signs are not specific to cancer. If your rabbit has any unusual lumps, isn’t themselves in anyway, eg appetite, thirst, urination or droppings reduced/increased, behavior different, grooming reduced, etc, it is important to speak to your vet.

Deafness

Rabbits can suffer from hearing loss as they get older. There’s not much that can be done for deafness, but if you think your rabbit is losing their hearing, firstly they need a veterinary check to ensure there’s no infection within the ear, middle ear disease is especially common in lop eared rabbits. If your veterinarian gives your rabbit the all clear, you’ll need to change your behavior around them. Let them see you when you approach them, so you don’t scare them. Be gentle and patient around them and spend as much time as you can with them. Deaf rabbits can continue to live a long and happy life.

Dental conditions

This is most often due to the gradual tipping of the cheek teeth leading to sharp edges forming that can irritate the tongue or cheek. Signs of this problem include the gradual rejection of hard foods (hay, pellets, and hard vegetables such as carrots), weight loss, salivation and a foul or sweet odor to the rabbit. As the problem progresses the rabbit may lose further weight or stop eating altogether. An oral examination under anesthesia may be required to diagnose the problem. Sharp edges are burred from the teeth to correct the problem, but as their teeth will continue to grow it is likely that the procedure will need to be repeated at regular intervals

Dirty bottom

If your rabbit is suffering from a dirty bottom, it is imperative to find the cause and treat the underlying problem, to ensure that your rabbit is clean, happy and comfortable, and aren’t an attraction for flies. Problems with diet, weight, dental disease, arthritis and spinal problems, housing, kidney/bladder stones, infection with Encephalitozoon cuniculi can all be causes of a dirty bottom. It’s important to keep your rabbit’s bottom clean if they’re struggling to do it themselves. Using some cotton wool and lukewarm water should do the trick. Make sure you dry them off with a soft clean towel.

Heart disease

Although this is thought to be rare in rabbits it can develop in aged rabbits. Signs may include difficulty breathing, hunched-up posture, exercise intolerance, lack of appetite, pale or blue gums/lips, and weight loss but with a larger abdomen full of fluid. As rabbits are prey animals, they will hide signs of illness for as long as possible, so by the time signs are seen the rabbit is likely to have been ill for some time. With regular veterinary checks and the correct treatment, many rabbits can have a good quality of life, but heart disease is likely to shorten your rabbit’s lifespan. Medications given will need to be continued for life, but with careful monitoring your rabbit can live comfortably with the condition. If you’re at all worried about your ageing bunny, call your veterinarian for advice.

Kidney/urinary problems

Early signs of kidney problems include breaking litter box training, increased frequency of urination or urine volume, or increased thirst and general lethargy. Urinary tract infections, bladder stones or sludge and kidney stones may make a rabbit more prone to kidney failure. Early treatment and good follow up of these problems are highly recommended to keep your rabbit healthy. Feeding a good quality diet good litter box hygiene and lots of fresh water will help prevent urinary tract disease as well. Many rabbits prefer and will drink more if they have access to water in a bowl, rather than a bottle, so consider using a water bowl as well as a bottle.

Mobility problems

The first change you may notice in the older rabbit is a decrease in activity. This may start with moving at a slower pace and generally looking stiff, especially in their hind legs and hips. This may progress to a reluctance to venture far from favorite places, being unable to eat their cecotroph droppings and suffering from a dirty bottom Changes in activity may be due to weight gain, weakness, and aches and pains from back problems and/or arthritis. Keeping your rabbit active will help keep him fit and slow this ageing process.

Obesity

Maintaining your ageing rabbit on a high fiber diet, low in grains, carbohydrates and sugars, combined with regular exercise will help prevent obesity. Obesity in older rabbits can cause joint and mobility problems, sore hocks and put them at increased risk of flystrike. If you’re struggling to keep the weight of your elderly rabbit, contact your veterinarian or veterinary nurse for some dietary advice.

Osteoarthritis (arthritis)

This is often seen in rabbits as they get older. The signs may not be obvious, as prey animals will try to conceal signs of pain and weakness. You may also think your rabbit is slowing down with old age, but it is possible they have arthritis, often found in their hips and spine. Your rabbit may move about less, they may hop in an abnormal way, veer to one side when they hop, struggle to get in and out of their litter tray, up ramps or different levels. If they struggle to bend over to eat their caecotroph droppings, they may suffer with a dirty bottom or matted fur around their tail. It is important to take your rabbit to your veterinarian so a clinical examination can be performed, and pain relief considered which should help your rabbit feel more comfortable and improve their mobility.

Overgrown claws

Older rabbits tend to be less active which means they won’t wear their claws down as much as they did in their younger day! This means they may need to have their claws clipped more often to prevent any discomfort. Use a pair of small animal clippers to clip their claws regularly, when they start to show through the fur on the end of the footpads If your rabbit is a bit nervous or fidgety, your veterinarian can help you do this if you don’t feel confident doing it yourself.

Sore hocks

These are pressure sores on the heel of the foot. Older rabbits may be more inactive, due to arthritic changes, muscle wastage or carrying too much weight. This can all put pressure on their feet, predominately the hocks on their back feet, causing pressure sores. They can develop if your rabbit doesn’t have enough soft bedding in their enclosure or is kept on dirty bedding.

Sore hocks are commonly found on overweight rabbits, those who have mobility problems, rabbits who have had a leg amputated and rabbits whose claws are overgrown, which forces the foot into an abnormal position and more pressure onto the hocks. Use absorbent bedding that draws urine away from your rabbit; a thick layer of hay is ideal as the rabbit also ‘sinks’ into the hay, providing cushioning, this is especially important if your rabbit has mobility problems which is common in older, arthritic and overweight rabbits.

If you notice pink or red patches on your rabbit’s feet, especially if there are any wounds or bleeding, it is important to take your rabbit to your vet.

Urine scalding

A complication of arthritis and spinal disease is urine scald caused by urine dripping or spraying on the skin between the rabbits back legs causing irritation. When rabbits urinate they push their bottom higher into the air and away from them, so urine is aimed away from the body, many older rabbits are not able to adopt this position. The best treatment for this problem is to correct the underlying cause, however this may not be possible in all cases. Shaving the hair from the affected area, bathing with mild soap and the use of topical products offer temporary relief. Some rabbits may benefit from surgery that moves the skin or urinary opening so that urine does not collect on the skin of the perineum and inner thighs.

Several new medications can help rabbits with painful joints and backs. Don’t put off caring for mobility problems. Properly diagnosed, your veterinarian  can make a significant difference for these rabbits. Precursors of joint material and joint fluid can be given to help slow arthritis and decrease arthritis pain, thereby greatly improving the quality of life for rabbits with arthritis.

You may have to adapt their housing so they can get around easily. Rubber mats or rugs can be used on slippery floors to make it easier for them to get around. Ramps can be used over steep/deep steps to make getting up and down easier. Litter trays may need to be altered to make the entrance lower if they’re having trouble getting in and out. Keep food, water, toys and hiding areas together so they don’t have to go far to get what they need. If your rabbit is kept outdoors, they may need added insulation and more bedding to keep them warm during the colder months. If your rabbit’s enclosure is over a number of levels, this may need changing so it’s all on one level so they can get around with ease. You could move your rabbit indoors, but this will need to be done gradually so they have time to adjust to their new home.

Older rabbits should be examined by a rabbit veterinarian at least once a year, or more often if you feel they would benefit from that extra tlc. If they are on long-term medication, they will need to be examined more frequently. Your veterinarian may wish to take blood and urine tests at this time. Rabbits with decreased mobility should have x-rays taken to rule out early arthritis or spinal disease. It’s more likely your veterinarian will catch any signs of illness at an early stage and give you the best advice for your rabbit as they age.

Even though your rabbit isn’t as young as they used to be, they still need plenty of exercise. Obesity isn’t good for ageing muscles and joints. If your bunny isn’t very enthusiastic about getting up and out for a hop around, you may need encourage them with their favorite treats and toys.

Vaccinations should be part of your annual healthcare routine anyway, but as your rabbit gets older, vaccinations are more important than ever as they can often have a weak immune system. If you give an old rabbit a home and don’t know what their vaccination status is, your veterinarian will recommend starting a new vaccination program to make sure they’re fully covered.

Eventually the time comes when the ageing process causes pets to have aches and pains. Many new analgesics (pain killers) are on the market that hold promise of helping in these times. Never forget that the quality of our rabbits’ lives is more important than the quantity. All too soon the time comes to say goodbye and offer euthanasia to an old friend no longer happy with their daily existence. Signs that this may be the case include refusal of food and stopping grooming behavior. Your veterinarian will be able to help you with this decision when the time comes. Euthanasia is typically accomplished with an overdose of an injectable anesthetic. A sedation injection may be administered initially, especially if your rabbit is very nervous.

The best way to have your rabbit live a long and healthy life is to offer him a happy healthy environment, a healthy diet and regular medical care. Not surprisingly, avoiding fattening foods, getting exercise and a happy social environment with a rabbit companion, all contribute. Early attention to health problems and a good preventative health program will keep little problems from turning into life threatening ones.